Diving and whalewatching in Baja California Sur

DebiLu
Oct 10
5 min read

Cabo Pulmo

Cabo Pulmo is about 1.5 hours by car from the international airport (SJD).

You should avoid the coastal road, as it’s unpaved and can be very bumpy.However, even the alternative route includes an unpaved section near the end. In Cabo Pulmo itself, there isn’t a single paved road – so expect it to be quite dusty.

Cabo Pulmo is a small village with just over 100 inhabitants. It mainly consists of bungalows, dive shops, and snorkeling tour operators. There are (so far) no large hotels or resorts.

There are only a few restaurants and one tiny supermarket (about 4 square meters) where you can buy basic supplies. It’s recommended to stock up for several days before arriving – especially on drinking water. And bring cash. There’s no ATM, and most places accept only cash payments.

Staying at Cremin’s Casas

Website: www.rentalsincabopulmo.comor via Airbnb (search: “Shark Shack! Perfect bungalow for two people”)

The Shark Shack: Studio with a queen-size bed, kitchenette, and bathroom.Amenities include a fan, Wi-Fi, hammock, shaded terrace, beach chairs, sun umbrella, and beach towels.

Diving with Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort

Website: www.cabopulmo.com

Small groups with a maximum of 6 divers, two-tank dives in the morning (2800 MXN), departure at 8 a.m., small boats, water only – no snacks.Full equipment rental: 600 MXN per dayNational Park fee: 100 MXN per day

After years of severe overfishing, the marine area off Cabo Pulmo was declared a National Park in 1995 and has been a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site since 2005. Since then, diving and snorkeling have only been allowed with official guides. Each morning, the dive guide must report to the park ranger’s office to find out which dive sites are open. El Vencedor is not available every day – you’ll need a bit of luck.

Dive Sites

El Vencedor / Shipwreck: dozens of bull sharks, thousands of Panamic porkfish
El Cantil Coral Reef: “nursery” for fish, great biodiversity, soft corals
El Islote: underwater rock formation, occasional sharks

Restaurants in Cabo Pulmo

Tacos & Beer – Our absolute favorite spot to relax, eat, and drink after diving. Very friendly owner and great staff. Delicious and affordable food.
La Palapa – Wonderful ocean view. Good food. We had lobster here on Christmas Eve.
El Caballero – No ocean view, but a lovely garden and charming terrace. The catch of the day was excellent.

What We Did Besides Diving

We visited Playa Arbolito, a beautiful white-sand beach with hardly any people.Entrance fee: 50 MXN.Snorkeling gear can be rented – it’s said to have a nice reef, but we didn’t try it ourselves.

La Paz

Staying at Casa Mulegé

Booked via Airbnb (“Loft Privado con Alberca Exclusiva – Casa Mulegé”).

A loft with a king-size bed, large comfortable sofa, spacious kitchen with breakfast bar, bathroom, and a large courtyard featuring a private pool shaded by a sun sail.

Snorkeling with Whale Sharks and Sea Lions

Tour booked with: On Board Bajaor via WhatsApp: +52 612 183 5278

Combination tour: 3500 MXN (approx. 195 USD)Duration: 6.5 hoursIncludes a homemade lunch on a secluded beach in Balandra Bay.

This tour is absolutely worth every peso, especially for the whale shark experience. The area is strictly regulated: each boat must register with the park rangers and is assigned a two-hour time slot for the whale shark zone. Everything runs calmly and in an organized manner — no animals are chased. Only four people are allowed to snorkel at a time while the others rest on the boat, allowing peaceful, respectful encounters with the animals.

Food & Restaurants

Estrella del Mar
Majagua, Marina Costa Baja
Odayaka Sushi Bar, Marina Costa Baja

Excursions

Playa El Tecolote – A long sandy beach popular with locals, with several casual beachfront eateries.
Playa Balandra – A protected bay with seven white-sand beaches and shallow turquoise water. A short hike up the hill offers spectacular panoramic views.

Both beaches are about 30 minutes from La Paz.

Todos Santos

A charming artists’ town filled with lovely shops and restaurants.Recommendation: Try the Tostada de Jaiba (crab tostada) at Restaurant Bar Bahía – not a fancy place, but very authentic.

Worth seeing:

Playa La Cachora – A long, deserted sandy beach with impressive waves (not suitable for swimming).
Popular surf spots nearby: Playa Los Cerritos, Playa San Pedrito, La Pastora, East Cape.

Wine Tasting

Viñedo Las Tinajas – Small vineyard offering a short guided tour of the winery.

Cabo San Lucas

Accommodation

Airbnb: “Million Dollar View Loft” – Located slightly outside town in the El Tezal neighborhood, with a fantastic view over the bay, comfortable sun loungers, a long pool, and breathtaking sunsets.

Features a large king-size bed, very small bathroom, and a tiny kitchenette (not suitable for real cooking). Very friendly hosts.

Whale Watching

An absolute must during whale season (mid-December to April). Whales can even be seen from shore!

There are many local operators, but if you want to avoid crowded boats, book with Latitude Encounters. Run by Matthias (Belgium) and Fernanda (Mexico) – both passionate marine enthusiasts – they offer fascinating and educational tours.

Tours offered:

Whale Watching (Dec–Apr): 3–4 hours, 150 USD
Marine Safari (Jan, Feb, Jun, Jul, Nov, Dec): about 6 hours, 250 USD, includes snorkeling with wild animals (we swam with dolphins and orcas!), plus snacks and lunch.
Shark Safari (Feb–Jul)

Contact: info@latitudeencounters.com or via Instagram DM

Food in Cabo San Lucas

Il Forno – Authentic Italian, great pizza, attentive service.
La Lupita Taco & Mezcal – The best tacos in town, excellent mezcalitas and tequilas, live music from 7 p.m.Food tips: Crab & kampachi tostada, Tuna & Wakame cold taco – absolutely delicious!
Imma Sushi Bar – Best sushi in town. Top recommendation: Chef’s special “Dey Roll.”

Local Hidden Gem (near the Airbnb):

Mariscos Cabo Seafood – Not much to look at, but delicious food, with sushi and ceviche bar. Perfect for a quick bite.

Dining Outside Cabo (Along the Coast)

Mako at Solaz Resort – Book via OpenTable. Upscale, right by the sea, magical at sunset (we spotted whales!).
Cocina del Mar at Esperanza Resort – Very expensive, but worth it, especially for sunset views.
El Farallón at Waldorf Astoria Pedregal Resort – Ultra-exclusive cliffside restaurant with spectacular ocean views. Around 450 USD for two (4-course menu).

Beaches

Avoid the town beach in Cabo San Lucas – too close to the marina, crowded, and not very pleasant.

Instead, head to Playa Boca del Tule or the Desert Park Natural Reserve (between Dreams Los Cabos & Costa Caracol) – white sand, almost deserted.

Beach restaurant tip: Sr. Pez Los Cabos – great tacos, friendly service, clean restrooms.

San José del Cabo

A charming old town full of character, with many small boutiques, art galleries, bars, and restaurants. We actually liked it even more than Todos Santos.

Park along Av. Centenario, and enter Habaneros Gastro Grill in your GPS – from there, it’s an easy walk into the historic center.

Restaurants

Lumbre – Fine dining (recommended by the Michelin Guide).
La Lupita Taco & Mezcal – Same as in Cabo San Lucas, excellent tacos and drinks.
Sage Baja – Stylish open-air restaurant with a farm-to-table concept, great pasta and seafood.

Beach Clubs

El Ganzo Beach Club – Day pass 1000 MXN (800 MXN food & beverage credit).
El Ganzo Rooftop Pool – Day pass 1600 MXN (1400 MXN credit).
Veleros Beach Club – Cabana with two sun loungers & hammock: 3800 MXN (3000 MXN credit).