Flores & the Komodo National Park – Where Natural Wonders Meet a Diver’s Paradise
- DebiLu
- Sep 2
- 9 min read
May 2024
Our journey begins in Zurich. We board a Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul and, after a short layover of just over an hour, continue on to Jakarta. Because our Batik Air flight to Labuan Bajo (Komodo) was rescheduled two hours earlier than planned, we inevitably miss it and are forced to spend the night in Jakarta
Arrival in Indonesia
If you’re traveling to Indonesia, do yourself a favor and arrange the Visa on Arrival (e-VOA) online before departure. With the QR code ready to scan, you can breeze through immigration and avoid the endless queues. Sadly, we hadn’t done our homework.
Instead, we found ourselves lining up to purchase the visa, only to discover that cash payment was the only option. Cue the ATM hunt, withdrawing cash, and getting back in line. Once we finally had the visa, it was off to passport control, where we waited another half hour while the officer grilled us for details: hotel address, length of stay, return flight number. Then on to baggage claim, and through customs—which, of course, required yet another form to be filled out at one of the airport kiosks, complete with its own QR code.
Jakarta – a city full of charm… not really
We chose a hotel in Jakarta’s Old Town, also known as Old Batavia. On paper, it sounded like one of the most charming neighborhoods in the city, steeped in Dutch colonial history. In reality, let’s just say Jakarta didn’t win us over.
The heat was suffocating, the traffic chaotic and downright dangerous, and a tuk-tuk ride left us inhaling more exhaust fumes than a decade of smoking ever could. On the much-hyped Fatahillah Square, Chinese tourists wobbled around on brightly painted bicycles wearing straw hats, sold on the idea of “feeling like a Dutchman for a day.”
But alright. Next.
The following day, we headed onward to Flores. This time, Batik Air stuck to the schedule, and two and a half hours later we landed in Labuan Bajo, Komodo’s modest international airport. The place is small and manageable, but baggage claim was already a marketplace, with women pushing wildly overpriced taxi offers. Outside, the men were waiting with slightly more reasonable fares.
We caught a ride to the harbor, where our first accommodation had its office. Even on the way, our driver tried to sell us a one-day Komodo National Park tour. We resisted—negotiations could wait.
Our destination: Le Pirate Island. The resort’s official shuttle boat leaves at 10 a.m., but since we’d arrived in the afternoon, we had no choice but to take a private transfer. Price: 1,000,000 IDR (cash only). Duration: about an hour.
Le Pirate Island
The island resort is made up of 17 glamping bungalows and 10 beach huts, all strung along the shoreline. The bungalows come with private outdoor bathrooms, while the huts share facilities. Among the bungalows there are three categories—Beach Front Sunrise, Beach Front, and Backstage. The Sunrise bungalows are the gems, tucked along the most private stretch of beach.
The island even has its own dive center with rental gear. Meals are served in a small beachfront restaurant: four breakfast options to choose from each morning, three dinner menus at night. Lunch is either buffet or à la carte. The menu isn’t huge, but the food is excellent, and the service impressively fast and professional. Drinks? Cocktails and fresh coconuts at the beach bar.
The welcome sign made us smile: “A wifi, children, drones & virus free zone for adults in search of paradise.” We weren’t entirely sure what age counts as “not a child” here, but judging by the family with two young kids, the cutoff must be around 12.
What the island also doesn’t have: Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, or even fans. To this day, we have no idea how our neighbors—an older German couple—survived the sweltering nights in their glamping bungalow. We sweated, tossed, and barely slept.
But all of that faded in the light of the island’s beauty. Because this place truly is paradise on earth. The beach is pure white, the water a dazzling turquoise, and the palms almost impossibly picture-perfect. In the shallows, baby reef sharks cruise the shoreline, while at the house reef you can snorkel with turtles and adult sharks.
As for sunsets—take your pick: sip a drink on the long wooden jetty, or hike up the island’s only hill on a short but steep 10-minute climb (sturdy shoes recommended) for a panoramic view. Either way, it’s unforgettable.
Booking: https://live.ipms247.com/booking/book-rooms-lepirateisland Le Pirate Beachclub (@lepiratebeachclub)
Menjaga Bay
Opened only in autumn 2023, Menjaga Bay lies just south of Labuan Bajo on the Flores mainland. Technically, there’s a road that leads to the resort, but it’s hardly suitable for regular cars (read: taxis), and the resort’s own 4x4 was in the workshop during our stay. Guest transfers are therefore done by boat—a scenic 15-minute ride by speedboat.
Upon arrival, with the curved wooden jetty stretching into the turquoise water and the sight of overwater villas, you could almost believe you’d landed in the Maldives. We were welcomed with a chilled glass of coconut water at the sunset bar right on the pier, before walking along the jetty that winds through a small mangrove forest. And behind it—one of the most stunning pool and restaurant areas I’ve ever seen. Every detail styled with care, in full-on Bali boho chic. Instagrammable par excellence.
We had booked two nights in a Mountain Bungalow and three nights in a Water Bungalow. But already after our first day in the Master King Mountain Suite, we knew we didn’t want to leave. Having our own pool turned out to be a far bigger luxury than direct access to the sea. The water here, edged with dense seagrass and mangroves, isn’t exactly inviting for swimming—in fact, we never saw a single guest take a dip in the ocean during our five days. Guests in the Sea Suites spent their time by the large resort pool or on excursions. Meanwhile, we enjoyed maximum privacy in our Mountain Suite, with a sunset-facing terrace overlooking the bay. In the evenings, monkeys would appear behind our bungalow, providing a little wild entertainment.
Spa
The Menjaga Spa is a true sanctuary, offering a wide range of massages and beauty treatments. We treated ourselves to a couple’s massage and can wholeheartedly recommend it.
Dining
Meals are presented with care and beautifully garnished, though the flavors sometimes fell a little flat—lacking the seasoning and punch we’d hoped for. Breakfast always came with a choice of three dishes, paired with a plate of fresh fruit.
The service, however, was impeccable. We felt genuinely looked after, with staff who were warm, attentive, and wonderfully friendly throughout our stay.
Almost adults only
One extra perk of Menjaga Bay: children under 13 are not allowed. This makes for a wonderfully peaceful and relaxed atmosphere—an absolute bonus for anyone looking to truly unwind and enjoy their holiday.n.
Booking: Menjaga Bay - New booking
Day Trip to Komodo National Park
From Menjaga Bay Resort, we booked a full-day excursion into Komodo National Park. Early in the morning, the hotel boat took us to the main harbor in Labuan Bajo, complete with a lovingly prepared breakfast-to-go bag. From there, we boarded a larger tour boat.
Unfortunately, almost all boats depart at the same time and follow nearly identical routes—meaning that every stop is crowded with tourists all at once. To avoid this, a private tour would probably be the way to go. In our case, we shared a relatively small boat with about ten other travelers.
Pulau Padar
The first stop was Padar Island, famous for its spectacular viewpoint over Komodo’s rugged island landscape. The short hike from the beach to the summit takes around 20 minutes. It’s quite steep but manageable—though definitely not something to tackle in flip-flops. The panorama from the top is absolutely breathtaking, and waiting for the perfect photo spot to clear is worth every minute.
Pink Beach
Next up was Pink Beach, where lunch was served and there was time for snorkeling. The beach is indeed beautiful, but the “pink” hue is subtle at best. To be honest, it didn’t quite live up to the high expectations we had.
Komodo Dragon Park
Our third stop was Darmaga Loh Liang, the Komodo dragon viewing site. With a guide, we set off on a short jungle walk in hopes of spotting the legendary creatures in the wild. And yes—we did see one. Tourists were even allowed to pose for photos with it, which felt a little bizarre. To us, the whole setup seemed somewhat staged. We couldn’t shake the suspicion that the dragon might have been sedated, its “wild” appearance orchestrated for visitors. This stood in stark contrast to the countless warnings and horror stories of dragons attacking or even devouring unlucky explorers.
Manta Point
Fourth on the route was Manta Point, a snorkeling and diving spot almost guaranteed to offer manta sightings. Sure enough, we saw two of these majestic rays while snorkeling—but only faintly, gliding far below us in the depths.
Turtle Point
The final stop was Turtle Point, promising encounters with sea turtles. Sadly, we didn’t spot any, likely due to the number of boats and tourists splashing around. Still, the reef itself was lovely and worth a look.
Costs
1,500,000 IDR per person (approx. $90)
Plus around 500,000 IDR (approx. $30) in cash for park entrance fees
Private tour: approx. 7,500,000 IDR per boat (around $450)
Our Verdict
As a quick introduction to the highlights of Komodo National Park, a day trip like this is a solid choice. That said, next time we’d likely invest in a private tour—more flexibility, fewer crowds, and a more authentic experience.
Komodo Resort & Diving Club
We spent our final five nights at the Komodo Resort & Diving Club—one of the few hotels located right in the heart of Komodo National Park. Its location makes it an excellent base for diving, as the travel times to the dive sites are much shorter than from Labuan Bajo.
The resort itself is simple and modest. It features 20 bungalows, a dive center, a small restaurant, and a bar. Instead of a soft sandy beach, there’s a pebbly shoreline, each bungalow equipped with two sun loungers. It’s not the right place if you’re dreaming of a pure beach holiday—but for divers, it’s spot on.
Diving
Several dives are offered daily, ranging from early morning to night dives, plus full-day excursions to more remote sites. The dive guides are excellent, the gear well maintained, and the boats spacious, with beanbags spread across the sun deck for comfort. Fresh fruit, cookies, and hot tea are always available between dives.
And the underwater world? Simply spectacular. These dive sites rank among the most beautiful in the world—comparable even to Raja Ampat. Think huge schools of colorful fish, graceful mantas, curious turtles, and pristine coral reefs bursting with life.
Dining
Meals at the resort restaurant are very good. The daily specials are the real highlight—usually fresh fish with rice, plus a vegetarian alternative. Even the simple pasta dishes were surprisingly tasty.
Where the resort fell short was service. Staff felt inattentive; getting a drink often meant asking twice. Strangely enough, they never offered a drinks menu, even though one clearly exists.
Accommodation
We chose the Private Bamboo Bungalow, tucked at the very end of the row. That little extra distance gave us more privacy and, best of all, uninterrupted sea views straight from the bed. Exactly the kind of detail that makes us fall in love with a place.
Booking: Komodo Resort
Final Thoughts: Flores & Komodo – A Journey Between Paradise and Reality
Flores and Komodo are destinations that stay with you long after you’ve left. Few places in the world combine raw natural beauty, world-class diving, and encounters with such unique wildlife. From turquoise waters teeming with reef sharks and turtles to rugged island landscapes crowned by breathtaking viewpoints, this trip offered both adventure and tranquility in equal measure.
What We Loved Most
The diving: Without a doubt, the highlight. The reefs of Komodo are some of the most vibrant and intact we’ve ever seen, rivaling Raja Ampat. Schools of fish, manta rays, turtles—it’s underwater magic at its finest.
Secluded stays: Le Pirate Island felt like stepping onto a postcard, while Menjaga Bay blended bohemian luxury with complete privacy.
Komodo Resort & Diving Club: A diver’s dream, perfectly placed inside the park with short transfer times to the best sites.
Where We Struggled
Crowds on day trips: The classic Komodo National Park day tour hits all the Instagram-famous spots—but at the exact same time as dozens of other boats. A private trip is worth considering for a more relaxed and authentic experience.
Jakarta: It simply didn’t capture us. Overwhelming traffic, suffocating heat, little charm. We wouldn’t recommend spending much time there.
Comfort factors: Heat, lack of air-conditioning, and limited Wi-Fi can test your patience—but they also keep the experience raw and unplugged.
Tips for Future Travelers
Sort your visa online (e-VOA) before arrival in Indonesia to avoid long queues at immigration.
Bring enough cash (IDR) for park fees, boat transfers, and remote stays where card payments aren’t always accepted.
Invest in a private Komodo tour if budget allows—it makes all the difference.
Pack proper footwear for hikes like Padar Island—flip-flops won’t cut it.
Don’t come only for the beaches. Flores and Komodo shine most under the water and out in nature, not as pure beach destinations.
Our Verdict
Flores and Komodo are not for everyone—they demand patience, flexibility, and a love for adventure over comfort. But if you’re a diver, a nature enthusiast, or simply in search of raw beauty, this corner of Indonesia will sweep you off your feet. For us, it was a mix of paradise and challenge, but above all, an unforgettable journey we’d recommend in a heartbeat.
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